There are many ways in which a restaurant kitchen is different from a domestic one, but the most striking one, for me, is THE STOCKPOT. I am using capitals just to show the scale of this ‘thing’. The stockpot bubbles away like a volcanic swamp, constantly needing to be fed. It’s astounding how this unglorious, epic thing–frothy and messy–is where the most delicate, profound flavours get started.
I never used to think that my home kitchen needed a bubbling stockpot. Or, more precisely, I thought the effort was too great for my needs. But recently, I’ve developed a habit of making broths more often, using up scraps and odd ends that have been collecting in my freezer.
I am not religious about it–not everything that’s edible ends up in a stockpot instead of the compost heap–but the aspiration is there. And for this, the freezer is my best friend. This is where a chicken carcass from Christmas, some forgotten carrots, ginger offcuts and the stubs of old Parmesan rinds get stashed, ready to be turned into broth.
Rachael Mamane, in her brilliant book Mastering Stocks and Broths, nails the art of using what’s usually tossed. The idea of making broth at home can feel like something from the past, but it’s actually gaining popularity. Stock cubes or sachets give you convenience–and I am all for that some of the time–but they do fall short on depth, soul and the satisfaction of making your own. Homemade broth is also far better for you, free from those unnecessary additives.
Over the past week, the test kitchen team have been revisiting broths to help make all the goodness more accessible; testing variations that fit into a more everyday (or perhaps Sunday) schedule.
Stock vs. broth
Stock and broth get discussed a lot, but they’re not quite the same. A stock is made by simmering bones (and sometimes veggies) for hours, leaving you with a rich, gelatinous liquid. Broth, though, tends to be lighter and more seasoned, perfect for sipping on its own. The lines blur in home kitchens, though—any broth can easily double as stock. The key is the foundation you’re building: a liquid that’s much more than just the sum of its parts.
How to build a broth
As Eric Sze says, “Cooking is like building a house. You need to lay a foundation, then add the bricks, the walls, the roof. Broth is very much the same thing.”
At its core, broth is simple—just water, ingredients, and time. But making a great broth isn’t just about tossing everything into a pot. It’s about layering, coaxing ingredients to unlock their best selves. Whether it’s the earthiness of a mushroom broth or the richness of chicken, it’s all about care. The right pot, the right base, and a little patience—those are the building blocks for something that tastes special.
1. Pick the right pot
A good broth starts with the right pot. A large, high-sided stockpot (about 6.5 litres) is ideal. But don’t worry, I know not everyone has one at home. Two smaller 3L pots will work just fine.
2. Choose your base
First question: meat, veg, or both? Whatever you choose, make sure to use a variety. For mushroom broth, mix up the mushrooms—shiitake, king oyster, whatever you’ve got.
3. Give it some love
Whether you’re using veggies or meat, the key is to cook them down first—roast or brown them to release their flavour. And don’t bother peeling your veggies—those skins add colour and extra flavour to the mix.
4. Start with cold water
Cold water helps bring out the impurities, which you can skim off to keep the broth clear. Skipping this step will leave you with a cloudy broth, and that’s not ideal.
5. Take your time
Good broth can’t be rushed. Vegetable broths come together in about 45 minutes, but meat broths need at least 3 hours of simmering to get that deep, rich flavour. You’re looking for the moment when the liquid no longer tastes like water but is full of depth and character.
6. Skim smart
Scum (those frothy bits on top) should be skimmed off as it appears. But fat? Let it stay while the broth simmers—it adds richness and depth. If you want a leaner broth, strain it at the end. Don’t toss the fat, though—use it for roasting any veg or potatoes.
To remove excess fat easily, let the broth cool in the fridge. The fat will rise to the top, ready to be skimmed off.
Simple Porcini mushroom broth
Dried mushrooms bring a rich depth to quick broths. This one’s simple and comforting, and you can tweak it with whatever’s on hand—veg scraps, ginger slices, even dried seaweed if you fancy. The beauty of vegetable broths is that they don’t need much time.
Serves 4 | Prep Time 5 mins | Cook Time 30 mins
Ingredients
- 30g dried porcini mushrooms
- 1 onion, roughly chopped
- 1 carrot, roughly chopped
- 6 garlic cloves, peeled
- 150g fennel trimmings
- ¼ tsp black peppercorns
- Fine sea salt
- Place all ingredients in a saucepan with 2L cold water and 1½ tsp salt.
- Bring to a boil, then reduce to medium and simmer for 30 minutes.
- Strain, reserving the mushrooms if needed. Discard the rest of the solids.
Once you’ve made the mushroom broth, you’ve got the base for endless possibilities. Chaya turned this broth into a mushroom ‘risotto’ made with oats (finished with umami-rich crispy mushrooms and a drizzle of sweet Kecap Manis) for a slow weekend breakfast. But honestly, it’s perfect for any time of the day. Just remember, use rolled oats, not porridge oats—it makes all the difference.
