Traditional Caprese salad (popularized in 1950s) is worth a quick recap: You need tomatoes, you need mozzarella, you need basil, and you need extra virgin olive oil. What makes a successful insalata Caprese? Quality ingredients. Whether you grow your own tomatoes or buy them from a local grower, they must be good. For the mozzarella, you can choose freshly-made (I buy mine from my Italian butcher in Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn, who makes it daily); this is a firmer mozzarella that needs a very juicy tomato. Or you can go commercial and domestic—the Belgioiso brand is a pleasing version (I prefer their mozzarella and burrata sold in brine). Or look to Italian-made mozzarella and burrata for extra tenderness and cream; the softer, brine-coddled cheeses can accommodate and envelop more acid, in slightly underripe or late-season tomatoes. For the olive oil, choose a single-source brand (some olives oils are a blend from many countries), and let your tongue lead the way. Heretics like me may substitute another oil altogether, like walnut or toasted sesame. – Marie Viljoen
Flaky salt and black pepper atop a single giant heirloom tomato, grown by Halal Pastures Farm, NY
Above: Caprese, upside-down, and showered with soft herbs.
You know those giant heirloom tomatoes that cost a small fortune? This is how to stage them. They make an indulgent meal for one, and a surprising and satisfying entrée for a party. Cut out their tough stem-base, slice off their caps (rub those across garlicky toast, for an appetizer), salt them, then add torn-up pieces of softer mozzarella. Shower the creamy cheese with a thunderstorm of fresh herbs, where basil leads the way. In the version above I have added tender and aromatic summer savory from my terrace pots. Drizzle with good extra virgin olive oil, and season with more freshly ground black pepper.
Above: A honey and citrus miso-paste is a bed for Black Krim tomatoes (Williams Fruit Farms, NY) and firm mozzarella, with mugwort to finish.
Miso Caprese Recipe
Makes two appetizer plates, or 1 larger serving as a side dish
Years ago, I realized that mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris), tomatoes, and miso, are a very good match. But it was only recently, when I had some leftover miso marinade from a roast salmon supper, that I thought to make it the base for deeply reconstructed Caprese. The miso is schmeared on the plate, with layers of firm mozzarella and extra-juicy tomatoes topping it. Instead of salt, a splash of good soy sauce; and in lieu of olive oil, a whisper of toasted sesame oil finishes the dish. A judicious sprinkling of invasive mugwort leaves adds a pungent note.
Miso Honey and Citrus Paste
- 2 Tablespoons miso (any kind)
- 1 Tablespoon honey
- 1 Tablespoon fresh orange or clementine juice
- 1/4 teaspoon lemon, orange, or clementine zest
Salad
- 2 medium tomatoes, very ripe
- 1 medium or 2 small ball/s mozzarella in brine
- 2 teaspoons soy sauce
- 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
- two sprigs of fresh mugwort, leaves picked off
For the paste: Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl until smooth.
For the salad: Halve the tomatoes and cut out any tough parts at the base. Slice into half moons. Cut the mozzarella into medium slices.
To assemble: Spread a tablespoonful of the paste on a plate (for a single serving), add the slices of mozzarella and tomato, season with black pepper, drizzle with soy sauce and sesame oil, and sprinkle with a few mugwort leaves (or basil).
