FONDUE
Ultimately, it’s about landing on a blend, taking singular cheeses of disparate origin and fusing them together into something greater than the sum of their respective parts. Fans of espresso, or Champagne, can think of this as somewhat similar to the process of assemblage—the blending of coffee or wine before pulling shots or moving on to second fermentation, respectively. Fondue needn’t be thought of exclusively as a large-format party dish—it makes a happy pandemic meal for two.
Here’s a very basic ratio and recipe that I personally enjoyed, with notes along the way.
Wine (half cup): I live in Oregon, and I used a bottle of Eyrie Vineyards Chasselas Doré, a grape commonly found in the Jura and alpine regions of France. You could use a zippy Valle d’Aosta Petite Arvine or an Alto Adige Gewürztraminer (this region of Italy is so alpine that they actually speak German). Something with elevation and acidity is ideal.
Cheese (2 cups): Make a coarsely shredded cheese blend. It can be as simple as a basic, entry-level Gruyère and Emmentaler, or as complex as raw milk heirloom herd alpine cheese from a single mountain valley near Zermatt. My perfect blend included one cup of Emmentaler, a half cup of Fontina, and another half cup of Beaufort d’Été. Talk to your favorite cheesemonger for a suggestion. They will have one!
Flour (1 tablespoon): Flour is essential as a thickening agent. Many recipes call for cornstarch, which, to me, feels rather off—something about coating fine raw milk cheese in a processed thickening agent like cornstarch doesn’t jibe. Use the more traditional flour instead.
Freshly squeezed lemon juice, shallot, garlic, salt, pepper, and a splash of brandy, sherry, or liqueur (kirsch, Chambord, Luxardo—something sweet).
Method:
- First, heat the wine, adding to it a whole clove of garlic and some roughly minced shallot. Heat it until it begins to burble, but do not boil it. Add the lemon juice at the very end, and stir. Strain the infused wine into a sturdy saucepan, and set the stove temperature to a gentle low-medium.
- Shred the cheeses. Place inside a reusable bag and add the flour. Shake to thoroughly coat.
- Gently add the cheese, bit by bit, to the infused wine on the burner, stirring as you go with a whisk. Add a little, stir a little, and add a little more. As the process moves along, things will begin to look—and smell—distinctly fondue-y. By the end, you should have a nice, viscous pot of melted cheese that clings to the tendrils of your fork.
- Finally, add a splash (1–2 tablespoons) of your preferred spirit. Kirsch is traditional, but a fondue pot finished with sherry makes a most welcome dip for chorizo and potatoes.
- Transfer to your preferred fondue vessel, be it vintage mid-century ceramic heated with a tea candle or modern Cuisinart überpot. Maintain a low but steady heat on the implement to keep things fondue-like in texture.
Serve with (being honest here) anything and everything—the Swiss are extremely doctrinaire about what can or cannot be dipped in fondue, but this is your house, and thus, your rules. Try starting with bacon-wrapped cherry tomatoes, Cosmic Crisp apple skewers, Korean pears, multiple forms of bread (challah, baguette, rye toast, lard bread), Italian grissini breadsticks, dried Spanish chorizo, dates, grapes, Eccles cake, baby carrots, pretzels, gherkins, and—most especially—boiled and salted fingerling potatoes (if that’s impossible, sub potato chips).
Simple Swiss Cheese Fondue | The Yellow Table
Serves 4
- 1 garlic clove, halved
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 1 1/2 pound Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch
Serve with: Boiled new potatoes, cubed baguette, sliced apples or pear, sliced vegetables, cornichons or other pickles, and charcuterie (like salami or prosciutto)
Rub the garlic clove over the inside of a small, heavy-bottomed pot.
Bring the white wine to a simmer. Stir together the cheese and the cornstarch, and slowly add the mixture to the wine, 1/3 at a time, whisking constantly. Once all of the cheese is added, stir until thickened and bubbling. Remove from the heat and serve immediately.
