Coconut chutney comes in white and green varieties. In order to make white chutney, you usually need fresh coconut, but considering the constraints of living in New England and being enrolled in school, I find the green version, made with frozen grated coconut, to be much more attainable. (Since white coconut chutney relies on the coconut for the entirety of its flavor, on the other hand, it’s important to have the freshest coconut meat available—frozen doesn’t cut it.) Traditionally, chutneys are made using a mortar and pestle, but for my purposes, a food processor or blender suffices.
To make it, start by washing 1 bunch cilantro, chopping the leaves and tender stems, and discarding the bottom few inches of the stems which tend to be tougher. Add cilantro to a food processor or blender along with 4–5 small green chiles (or “hari mirchi”) and a squeeze of lemon or lime juice to smooth out the mixture. Once green chile seeds have been visibly broken up, add about ½ cup frozen grated coconut, thawed, along with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 2–3 tablespoons whole-milk yogurt (preferably desi yogurt, which is more sour than other types of yogurt). Taste the mixture: It should be salty and sour. Add approximately 1 teaspoon tamarind concentrate (this gives the chutney its characteristic sourness) and blend until smooth, adding more coconut and tamarind to taste. Eat immediately or transfer to an airtight container—it will last for about 1 week in the fridge.
